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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-17-02 01:16

OR!!!!! a crystal clear ball (no flouress at all) with an extremely black light sensitive center sphere-- Imagine seeing THAT isolated in complete darkness but for a blacklight!!!!!
dream-dream-dre-eam
dre-e-e-e-eam
dream-dream-dre-eam,
Robin

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Chico 
Date:   05-17-02 01:23

Actually, this is my dream ball that Ferret, Kae, Shift and a few others have heard me pine after. I, however, want 3" clear acrylics with 1" jet black opaque sphere suspended in each. :) I was told it wasn't impossible, witch is about as encouraging a response as I've gotten in my inquiries. I'm going to buy them, one way or the other ,'-)

Chico The Showoff

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-17-02 01:45

Thats actually what my first vision was-- the black sphere was there in my imagination to block out the sun from burning everything when outside on the street. (of course this may well not work). But yeah it's all about 3"ers with 1" spheres inside.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: ICU812 
Date:   05-17-02 05:04

this would be pretty freakin sweet.

I'd pay good money for somethin like that.

Jacques

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit."
-Aristotle

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Lance Coombes 
Date:   05-17-02 18:54

Gee, this seems to be a common theme! I've envisioned the same thing! 3 inch acrylics with 1 inch black spheres suspended in them. I like the idea of the deep red or flourescent inner spheres as well. I'd thought about different colors, but hadn't thought of the flourescent. Neat!

--
Imagine that there is some clever signature here.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: GReg 
Date:   05-17-02 22:06

I've tried this, and I'm trying again. It's harder to do than you think since it can't be cast all at once. Centering the darn thing is close to impossible. I'm still trying. My last attempt got us the "drops" balls. Neet, but not what I was looking for.

(colored acrylic is denser than clear acrylic ... Duh, I should have realised that).

-GReg

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-18-02 03:54

awesome, you're trying. Keep at it I bet you'd sell loads of them.
cheers,
Robin

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Mate Black 
Date:   05-18-02 17:01

Or, if you're in the mood for something really spectacular, figure out how to suspend some form of glowing sphere inside a larger acrylic. Kind of hard to charge the glowball without making the wires and bits and pieces obvious, but maybe a solar-powered light-sensitive ball of some sort?

Or am i just taking this too far?
-=Matte=-

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-19-02 00:53

We can't take this thread too far-- "Ball Dreams"

How 'bout this one-- I was thinking the center sphere if it were actually slightly OFF center it would look cool too. With a perfectly isolated 3" sphere and the inner 1"er gently sort of floating and rolling about (it might not look that cool though). OR a perfect CUBE inside-- as the sphere floats all isolated the cube tumbles (perfectly centered on this one though) and floats, suspended inside--- OOOH how 'bout a mirror finished cube such that it reflects light off of it sides, glinting and shining brightly from within as you work your magic. ooOOOH mirror finished sphere inside!!!. I think it's time for sphere's with things inside. Greg, go get 'em. Please.
robin

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: michael glenn 
Date:   05-19-02 15:30

How about a sphere that is a model of our soloar system!

That's my king of toy!

Michael

balls of lightning rolled along...

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: GReg 
Date:   05-19-02 22:25

I will look into this. A cube is much easier to center than a sphere. I don't know about the mirror bit, but a colored cube is possible, now lets see if I can do it :( no way to find out without trying.

-GReg

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Axl Rose 
Date:   05-20-02 04:20

"I think it's time for spheres with things inside." What a great line! I think my favorite so far has been a 3in with a 1in blacklight sensitive sphere. I was just thinking... If one were to drill into an old acryllic and somehow hallow out a hole in the middle, then pour whatever color in there and seal it up with that goop they use in models to make ponds and such. Only problem: how to make a sherical hole in the middle? One could just content himself with using the drillbit size as the diameter of a sphere, but this would create a VERY small colored dot in the middle, not to impressive. I have CJed with one of those glass balls with a rose in the middle, not too impressive. Let's go put things in spheres!

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 Manufacturing suggestions/concerns
Author: K'Tesh 
Date:   05-20-02 08:32

place your desired center object in the mold... then add your acrylic resin.... then while the resin cures, spin the mold... in all 3 axis (XYZ) so that the object will move to the center on its own... hopefully.

Would adding an object (especially one of a different material) increase the risk of damage though?

My .0002K
Qapla'
K'Tesh {=)

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 Re: Manufacturing suggestions/concerns
Author: ICU812 
Date:   05-20-02 14:07

I talked to the people at Engineering Labs about it and they say they can't do it. That kinda sucks. I really would have liked an acrylic with a UV center or something like that.

Jacques

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit."
-Aristotle

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 Re: Manufacturing suggestions/concerns
Author: Klas 
Date:   05-21-02 10:14

I think that this would only work if the object is lighter than the acrylic. If it's heavier it would end up as far out as it could go. And if it has the same density I suppose that it could float around more or less randomly while spinning. I may be wrong though. :)

The subject is interesting so some brainstorming is only good, write down all your crazy ideas, something may come out of it.

Also, I was thinking, if you had a sphere slightly off-center it would be a nice challenge to try to isolate it. I think it should be possible but would probably have to rely far mor on sight than a usuall one-ball iso.

Klas

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 Re: Manufacturing suggestions/concerns
Author: mdamelio 
Date:   05-21-02 16:03

another thing with the sphere being off center is that it would throw the weight of the ball off. We have all worked with things where the weight is slightly askew but paying money for something that would be like that is a little out of my needs. I'm guessing that the only way for the weight to roll evenly would be for the inner object to be in the absolute center, but I'm no physics person, this is just my common sense, which has been wrong in the past :-) Maybe chicken can enlighten us.

~Mickey

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 Re: Manufacturing suggestions/concerns
Author: Rob 
Date:   05-21-02 16:30

If the inner sphere was of the same density as the outer sqhere (which would almost certainly be the case if we are talking about a coloured acrylic embedded in an outer clear acrylic) then there would be no problem with it being off centre - the centre of mass would still be located at the center of the ball.

Rob

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: GReg 
Date:   05-21-02 18:49

Thanks for the kick. You know I may have it this time. Now to see if I can actually get it centered. UV is out for now, but a good color is quite possible it seems. 1" in the middle of a 3" ball is what I am going for. Any color choice. I was thinking of a emrald, or a ruby red.

-GReg

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Ryan 
Date:   05-21-02 19:50

Aerotech used to make specially made balls that had small pinholes in them, and instead of glowing a solid color they send out tiny beams of light. In a smoke filled room, this would surely be damn cool.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-21-02 20:06

I like the way you think. Both of those colors would be awesome. Oooh, I'm getting excited. Keep at it.
Thanks Greg!
Robin

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-21-02 20:12


This is addressed to GReg and everyone else who are atempting to float a 1" sphere within a 3" acrylic.

I have been contact-juggling for 1 1/2 years now and have been experimenting with making my own balls for nearly as long. It is not impossible to suspend the smaller sphere at the exact center of the larger one, however, it is very difficult to pull off. We are talking three dimensions here, you can't just spin the mold as if you were making a hollow silicone ball and expect everything to come out all right. There is only one practical way to accomplish what you plan with acrylic; (Tip: Experiment with acrylic casting first so you know the rate of shrinkage involved, and always pressure cast as it is the only sure way to avoid bubbles.)
1: Pressure cast your smaller ball and polish it.
2: Cast 6 clear acrylic rods 1/2 cm across and 1 3/4" long.
3: Contour and polish one end with the reversed arc of the 1" ball.
4: Map out the six axis of the ball, marking them with a small scratch from an exacto (This will not be visible in the final product).
5: Afix said rods to the ball exactly centered on the scribed marks with a bit of clear epoxy.
6: Place resulting form in a 3" ball mold that has been modified with dimples for the ends of the shafts (The measure of the form tip to tip being slightly more than 3")
7: Slowly and carefully fill the mold with clear acrylic resin and place in a pressure chamber under 60 psi for at least three hours, allow to cure naturally.
8: When removed from the mold, the resulting ball will have six nipples which must be ground off (A wooden sanding block conforming in shape to the outside curve of the ball will do nicely, use at least 600 grit sandpaper, no heavier.)
9: Polish the ball.

There is, however, a much easier way to get the effect you are trying for. The main problem inherent in doing this work with acrylic seems to be that the rate of shrinkage is too variable. If trying this method I recomend using a clear urethane compound like CrystalClear 204 (Available from www.smooth-on.com), it has much the same durability as pure acrylic and IS water clear (Unlike the poly-carbon compounds some people use.). These should also be pressure cast, for directions on doing so cheaply and easily e-mail me at Tare@boxfrog.com.
1: Make three molds, one being a 1" ball (Exact measurement of mold as CC 204 has neglible shrinkage when pressure cast.) and the others being matching hemispheres so that when fitted together they form a 3" sphere with a 1" spherical hollow in the center.
2: Cast all three and cure (If you used a mold coating agent like pre-cote (smooth-on.com) you will not even have to polish at this stage.
3: Afix small sphere to the inside of one hemisphere with a thin and even coat of epoxy, always making sure to cover ALL of the glueing surface, clamp together with a Quick-clamp, and allow to cure.
4: Affix second hemisphere to resulting form with thin and even coat of clear epoxy, clamp together with a Quick-clamp, and allow to cure (If your epoxy coats were truly even you should have no air bubbles or distortion at the joint).
5: Polish.

These methods do work, I have suceeded with both, though in all honesty I must say that the second is by far the easier for the nocice mold maker.
It is also possible, using the second process, to make a ball with a suspended object inside that will always remain upright no matter how the ball is turned. (Instructions are for a 4" ball.)
1: Make three molds, one being for a 3" ball and the other two being for hemispheres that ,when attached, form a 4" ball with a 3" hollow inside (1/2" walls)
2: Cast the 3" ball with whatever object you wish inside, also encase a small lead plug near the bottom of the sphere:(Attempt to hide it in or behind whatever you are encapsulating.) this is so the 3" sphere will be bottom heavy (Very important).
3: Cast your hemispheres and wipe down the insides with a thin coat of clear sillicone lubricant, making sure to coat all of the inner surface but not the parts of the hemispheres that will touch.
4: Apply a thin coat of epoxy to both glueing surfaces ending 3/16" from the inner edge, fit hemispheres together (With 3" sphere between them.), clamp together LIGHTLY, and allow to cure. Because the lead weight will always seek the bottom of its enclosure and because of the lubrication, whatever you have encased therein will always remain upright.
Well, looking back, that seems to sum it up... If you have any questions or would like to know if something is possible merely e-mail me (Tare@boxfrog.com) and I will respond as soon as I may. I will be moving to Boston, MA in early July and will soon after start giving free CJ classes for beginers and making custom balls on a first come first served basis as well as fire juggling equipment (Poi, fans, staff, etc.), anything is possible. If you would like more contact information other than my e-mail address, please wait untill after the move and I will be happy to oblige those who ask. Till then.

Marz Kelly

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: remy 
Date:   05-21-02 23:09

an ex of mine tried to have that ball made for me once...unfortunately, he was at that point rapidly becoming an ex...so...well...

remy

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Matte Black 
Date:   05-22-02 01:22

Marz! You've made me want to set up a casting plant! Brilliant! What on earth am I going to do now that all the instructions are there in front of me?

And also, try the concept of a UV light in a ball - you know how it's hard to focus on a UV tube? A blurry ball that looks insanely unfocusable travelling around a person?

My ball dream. I need a girlfriend to keep thoughts like this from taking over my mind...

-=Matte=-

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Axl Rose 
Date:   05-22-02 05:52

damn! Marz=Genious in my book. Now I just gotta get myselfsome molds... By the way, marz, how much does that cost you, about?

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Klas 
Date:   05-22-02 08:20

Sweet!

I'm sure you're going to find customers for that kinda of work on this site. I suppose though that the price of these balls will make an ordinary acrylic seem inexpensive. :)

Klas

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 Re: Manufacturing suggestions/concerns
Author: Klas 
Date:   05-22-02 08:23

I think that Greg mentioned somewhere that coloured acrylic is heavier than clear, but I suppose the difference is very small so I don't think it would be a problem.

But you're probably right, even if it did work I doubt it would be fun enough to pay lots of money for.

Klas

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: GReg 
Date:   05-22-02 15:20

I have (had) a set of those. They were way cool until they broke.

-GReg

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 19:01

Hello again... I had a stroke of genius last night before bed and mapped it out over breakfast, so, here it is...

THE EASIEST WAY TO SUSPEND A 1" SPHERE IN THE EXACT CENTER OF A 3" SPHERE (Compleat instructions, I have not done this one, but I guarentee that it will work with accuracy of +/- 1/16 of an inch over any one axis.) (Following instructions on pressure casting)

All of your casting should be done in a pressure chamber capable of sustaining 60 psi for up to 10 hrs, so....

HOW TO CONSTRUCT AN INEXPENSIVE PRESSURE CHAMBER THAT CAN BE PRESSURISED WITH A HANDPUMP.

1: Buy an old pressure coocker (Used for canning, $10 or so at a yard sale or thrift store), a standup bicycle pump (The kind that stands on the floor and has a T shaped handle, $25 at a sporting goods store), and a standard bycycle innertube (Dosent matter if it is popped as long as the valve is good.)
2: Cut the pressure valve out of the innertube, leaving 1" of rubber surrounding it.
3: Measure the distance across the base of the valve (About 1/4") and drill a hole that size through the lid of the pressure cooker anywhere it pleases you.
4: Take the lid off the cooker and stick the valve through the hole you have just made from the inside.
5: Apply good epoxy or silicone sealant to the rubber flap you have left around the valve and stick it to the inside of the lid. As necessary, apply more silicone over the edge of the patch for added air-tightness. Allow to dry. (Now you should have a valve sticking out through the top of the lid, and sealed airtight.)
6: Assemble the pressure cooker and tighten the lid down. Attach the nozzle of the bicycle pump to the valve and start pumping. Within 5 min or so you should be able to pump it up to 63 psi (The extra 3 psi is to allow for air escaping when you detach the pump.)
7: See how long the presure lasts, if the guage that is attached to the cooker does not work, buy one at the hardware store ($10).
After filling your mold, place it in the pressure chamber, pump it up to 60 psi and leave it sit for 3 hrs, this will force all air bubbles out of solution and give you a beautiful cast.

And now, without further ado...

THE EASIEST WAY TO SUSPEND A 1" SPHERE IN THE EXACT CENTER OF A 3" SPHERE (Compleat instructions, I have not done this one, but I guarentee that it will work with accuracy of +/- 1/16 of an inch over any one axis.)

(All the work here is in making the molds and, after that, one may just mold ball after ball to thier hearts content.)

(This should be done with a castable urethane compound or one of the hich end casting acrylics as you need something with little to no shrinkage.)

Begining: Buy a 1" sphere (metal, acrylic, wood... as long as it is smooth.), a three inch sphere (preferably acrylic), a short section of 1 cm diameter pipe metal, plastic... as long as it is rigid and strait.), a short section of 1 cm diameter rod (acrylic or metal.), a small plastic funnel, pourable mold silicone, and casting acrylic or urethane.

Making the molds:

1: Cut a 3/16" length of the pipe (Be careful to make the ends strait.) and grind douwn the INSIDE corner of one end untill it comes to a point with the outside edge.
2: Glue pipe to the 3" ball from the inside with silicone adhesive (Sharp side to the ball.), and glue the funnel to the opposite side of the ball in the same manner (Small end to the ball).
3: Stand the resulting shape ON THE END OP THE PIPE in the bottom of a small box or coffee can that fully encloses everything and gives at least 1/2" of empty space around it... Carefully fill the empty space with pourable mold silicone and presure cast for 1 hr (It is better to pour the mold when the recepticle has already been placed in the pressure chamber so you dont knock the form over by moving it.
4: Make a mold of the 1" ball, standing on the funnel... Cover to 1/2" over the top of the ball. (Attach the funnel in the same way, this will be what you pour through in the finished mold.)
5: Cut a 3 cm length of the 1 cm rod, drill a 3/16" hole at one end to a depth of 2 mm (Winding tape around the drillbit 2mm down its length works as a good stop.) Make a cast of the resulting shape with funnel attached to the opposite end to the hole.
6: Carefully cut the molds off your peices and inspect them for bubbles/imperfections.

Making the ball:

1: Coat the insides of your molds with release agent and pre-cote.
2: Pour urethane into the finished molds for the 1" sphere and the 3 cm rod through the integral funnels till they are full to the top (Molds should already be placed in the pressure chamber, remember to add color to the shapes you want colored!), allow to cure for 48 hrs.
3: Take out the finished peices and cut off the funnels (Strait across the base for the rod, and 1/16" away from the sphere.), polish off the excess from the 1" sbhere with 1000 grit sandpaper on a wood block cut to the same radius... polish the spot.
4: Fill the hole in the rod with clear epoxy and, WHILE IT REMAINS WET, place the 1" ball over the hole so it balences... alow to dry.
5: Place the resulting shape in the 3" mold so thet the base of the rod extends through the hole in the base of the mold to sit on the bottom of the pressure chamber, fill the mold with clear urethane, pressure cast and cure.
6: Take out of the mold, cut off the funnel shape to 1/16" away from ball, and grind off the remaining stubs (One from the funnel, and one from the base of the rod.) with 1000 grit sandpaper on a woodblock radiused to 3" (Hint: The sanding block needs not have a spherical depression, if it is radiused to a circle you need only grind the ball with a spinning motion to grind a sphere. Circular radiused sanding blocks are much easier to make than sphereical ones.).
7: Polish.

VOILA

Ta for now.

Marz Kelly

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 19:06


To set up a small casting plant (See my other posts) would cost around $200-300 (Not including casting materials. After that is out of the way you can cast a 3" clear ball for $7-10 apice plus labor. If you have enough free time to do it this repersents quite a lot of savings (Time to make 3" ball after molds are made 1 1/2-2 hrs., not including cure time (It just sits there while curing, not particularly labor intensive.). Hope this helps, e-mail me for more info.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 19:13


*ALL PRICES ARE APPROXIMATE*

Not particularly, considering the labor involved I think I could make a 3" clear or colored for $25, A 4" for $55, A 3" with a 1" center ball for $45, and a 4" with a stationary encapsulation for $150. The price is all in the labor you see.

I will set up limited production in 1 1/2 months or so so we will see if I have standard prices by then. If I have not got my act together by then, hunt me down and smack me silly.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 19:37


Problems inherent in placing a transmissive UV light in an acrylic.

1: Charging it
2: Making it look good
3: Hiding the charging apparatus/wires
4: Making it bright (As clear acrylic acts somewhat like fiber optic cable and does not lend itself well to brightness.

Solution.

1: Cast two 1" thick acrylic hemispheres that are integrally threaded so that thay may be attached to each other with a half twist, forming a 3" shell with a 1" hollow center.
2: Form 6 black light LED's into a spherical array 1" across with a watch battery and a switch inside and cover with a plastic sleeve.
3: Acid etch the outside of the hemispheres with a 3% aqueous solution of hydrocloric acid to make them matte finished.
4: Place the LED array inside, turn it on, and twist the halves together; this will give you a very bright transmissive (No external black light necessary) UV ball that is uniformally illuminated from within.

I can build you one if you want, talk to me in a month and a half when I have moved.

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: marco 
Date:   05-22-02 19:39

Hi wow! great posts, makes me wanna try it all out (and I'm sure I will do so someday soon)

I think though I will make a small adjustment to your pressurchamber design; I was thinking that (since I have an old pressure cooker without guage) to use an mountainbike innertube. They come with the car-valves so I can use an car-foot-pump (with build in pressuge guage) to pump it to the desired pressure.

Marco

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Arron 
Date:   05-22-02 19:54

Marz

I have to say that some of your ideas for a custom contact juggling ball sound great. I would be interested in seeing some of your custom work when you have a sample to show. When you set up shop please e-mail me at agitzen@winston.com. Thank you for contributing your ideas.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 19:55


Sounds like it would work fine... you need a guage though so go and buy one that goes from 0-150 psi or so at your local hardware store ($10-15, drill a hole in the top of your lid, and thread it in.

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: mdamelio 
Date:   05-22-02 20:28

Hey marz you coming to cjc by chance??

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 21:56


Unfortunatly not this year... I am to busy at the present time. However, I will almost definitly be going next year. Until then you will all have to correspond with me long distance (Except for those of you who might live in and around Boston.). If anyone has questions about how to manufacture your own balls, merely ask, I believe that it is obvious from my previous posts that, while I would love to make enough money doing this to not have to work elsewhere, I have no problem telling other people how to do it themselves if they are so inclined.

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-22-02 23:03

Holy smokes, look what happened here! Thanks so much for your input and all, Marz. Between you and Greg I'm mighty excited about getting some of these balls. Cheers,
Robin

P.S. How does a pressure chamber actually work? All my experience (hobbying) with casting has been either centrifigul (SP?) or vaccum. My father shoots molds with pressure however it's an injection molding machine.

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 23:14


Pleased to oblige...

A pressure chamber works in that it is used to subject the cast to an even pressure of 60 psi while the casting material is still liquid. The purpose of this is that all bubbles that happen to be in solution were mixed into the cast at normal atmospheric pressure. With the internal pressure of the air bubbles being so much less, they quickly rush to the nearest surface contacting the air (The open top pour-funnel in my case.) like a baloon held under water will rush to the surface when released. If you read up on the compound you are using you will find out exactally how long to do this for, but generally 3-6 hrs. under pressure will give you a compleatly bubble free casting.

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-22-02 23:22

ahhh.
Cheers!

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 Re:
Author: michael glenn 
Date:   05-22-02 23:22

How Freakin' cool, put me down for a couple of those custom centered spheres!!!!!
Marz, please post when you go into production.

Be Well,
michael

balls of lightning rolled along....

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 Re: casting shrinkage
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-22-02 23:45



Hello all,

If any of you try my casting instructions with acrylic epoxy you will probably be dissapointed as you will have to do A LOT of experimenting to get the shrinkage down. I very much recomend using castable urethane compounds which have comperable hardness durability, and clarity and also have the advantage of having a neglible shrinkage rate while casting (Even less shrinkage while pressure cast.) Remember: most shrinkage during casting is caused when the internal temperature of the ball rises past 100 degrees celcius, at this point some of the still liquid medium GELS, causing shrinkage. So... the thicker the cast the more heat developes the more it might shrink.

For your perusal, here is a listing of four good clear urethanes and their sorces... my favorite is Crystal Clear 204 from smooth-on, but I dont suppose anyone cares. *Grin*

'Crystal Clear 204' www.smooth-on.com
'Poly-Optic 1410' www.polytek.com
'PU 368' www.alchemie.com
'Clear Cast' www.resinservices-reklein.com

Happy casting.

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: UV reactive pigments
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-23-02 20:17


'Lo again,

I figure that by now you all must be getting sick of me but, for those of you who don't wish I would die...

SCORCES FOR UV REACTIVE PIGMENTS FOR ADDITION WITH ACRYLIC AND/OR URETHANE CASTING. (These are usually MUCH more expensive than standard colored pigment dispersions.)

Here we go... There are a few sorces that I know of for glow in the dark and UV reactive pigments but, before I list them, I wish you to know that I consider Glowbug to be the best.

www.glowbug.co.uk- UK based manufacturer of pigments for inks and plastics; available in the US through Cleavland Pigment & Color Co. (www. cleavlandpigment.com, 1680 East Market St. Akron, Ohio 44305-4246 Ph. 330-794-9977 Fax. 330-794-1510 1-800-688-3884)

!! FOR DETAILED INFO ON GLOV AND UV PIGMENTS, DOWNLOAD http://www.capricorn.co.uk/glowbug/glowbug_guide.pdf !!

Other Suppliers:

www.glo-net.com (5 colors of pigments, very expensive, must order 1/2 kg.)

www.kremer-pigmente.de (German based supplier, UV pigments not in US catalog as yet... good prices.)

www.luminescers.com/pigments.html (Write to them for info... I dont know much about them.)

Anyway... thats all for now, if using ANY pigment in acrylic/urethane casting, make certin that it is compatible with your casting medium first!

Ta for now,

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: !!SAFTEY IN CASTING!! (please read)
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-23-02 20:28


Hello all,

I just want to issue a little warning here...
If you are going to be expirimenting with casting your own balls ALWAYS follow proper saftey guidlines. If doing this you will NEED:

1: A well ventilated area to work in
2: A good filter mask (Not one of those paper shell masks, I ma talking replacable filters here.)
3: Chemical workers splash goggles (Not impact goggles, you need something that blocks every angle of attack.)
4: Heavy duty chemical resist gloves that come to your elbows
5: A viynl splash apron
6: A set of clothes you dont mind seeing ruined

Rember always to fully read the instructions and precautions that come with EVERY product you use, some of these things are activally trying to kill you. There is no reason that anyone cannot cast their own balls as long as they are careful and, above all, make certin that they know what they are doing before they even order the supplies.

I am serious here and am willing to help anyone who needs to find things out.

Marz Kelly (Tare@boxfrog.com)

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 Re: UV reactive pigments
Author: Robin Spehar 
Date:   05-23-02 20:37

Crikey, Marz, you're off the hook with this stuff. I feel the bug to make my own balls now with all the instructional data and sources for marerials that you've provided us. But more importantly I find myself excedingly confident that you can make fine balls. I'd like to see some of your wares. Once one of us buys some of your products and leaves (encouraging) feedback here I could see you having a nice little supplimental cash flow system on your hands. Let us know the minute you'd be able to fill some orders. I'm interested in a 3" acrylic with a 1" red acrylic in it's center. If I'm pleased with the quality, over time you could safely expect a totaly of 8 of these such balls sold to me (granted the price tag isn't too hight). Please let us know.
Thanks again,
Robin

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 Re: !!SAFTEY IN CASTING!! (please read)
Author: mdamelio 
Date:   05-23-02 22:52

Hey Marz I don't know how you feel about this but all this ball casting info seems like great fuel for an essay. You could pull all the info you've given us over the past few days in one convenient easy to read place. Of course this is completely your perogative I just thought it'd be cool to have this info immortalized.

~Mickey

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 Re: Plans for the future
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-23-02 23:22


Um... Yah, that would be great (Posting all this casting info as an essay.), and I will do it too. Lance has goaded me into setting up an instructional website so I am working up a series of diagrams and equipment lists for that. When I am finished I think I will post a pared down, text only version in the essays section. Just give me a week or so to get my act together.

Ta,

Marz Kelly

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 Re: Plans for the future
Author: Lance Coombes 
Date:   05-24-02 18:55

Yahoo!!! Let me know if you need any assistance, Marz!

--
Imagine that there is some clever signature here.

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 internal etching
Author: silver 
Date:   05-26-02 14:45

Is internal etchimg a possibility?

Isn't it possible to get a ball drawn inside the other ball?

I've seen some fine 3d work inside clear blocks, this shouldn't be too tricky!

silver

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 Re: internal etching
Author: Marz Kelly 
Date:   05-29-02 22:44


"Buurpp!!" (That was a burp of terror.)

Let me see here... Hmmm...
You are talking about doing a floating center 3D laser etch in Lucite!?? Yee Gods man, are you insane?! I wonder if I could do it. Hmmm... All I would need is... *Smacks self around for 5 min. or so just for considering it.*

Marz (Tare@boxfrog.com

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 Re: Ball Dreams
Author: Bink 
Date:   06-04-02 16:19

Do you remember the scene in Men In Black, when the girl looks into the marble with the universe inside it?? I've wanted one of those since then.....

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